Brown is the natural colour of leather, but black is generally considered a more formal, smarter colour. So when it comes to wearing shoes that meet your style and formality needs, you have a choice to make. In this article, we’ll unpick the differences and try to settle on some guidelines and assemble a standard-issue shoe collection. Soon, you will never have to spend too long deciding which pair of shoes to wear, be it for business or for pleasure.
The case for black shoes
Smart, polished black shoes remain the go-to footwear for formal occasions. They simply have a presence that complements evening attire like no other type of shoe, drawing the eye without demanding attention – just as footwear should do. For black tie events, state occasions or formal business meetings, wear a pair of black Oxfords. End of story.
Basically, if you’re attending any of these events, or something similar, opt for your smartest pair of brown dress shoes:
- Black tie events and white tie functions
- Funerals and memorial services
- Job interviews in professional sectors (finance, law, government)
- Formal business meetings with executives or clients
- Evening weddings and formal receptions
Black Derby shoes, with their open lacing, do offer slightly less formality while maintaining professional credibility, and could be an option if you feel the formality levels aren’t turned up to 11. Wear them with a charcoal or navy suit in workplace settings.
The appeal of brown shoes
Brown shoes, on the other hand, bring warmth, character and versatility to your look. There’s no single definition of “brown”, of course – they range from rich chocolate to a light tan, each shade having a distinct mood. Brown shoes have long been a mark of sophistication rather than casualness – particularly in a rich, deep oxblood.
For a cut out and keep guide, brown shoes work best in the following circumstances:
- With a navy, grey or beige suit for daytime business
- At country weddings and garden parties
- For smart-casual office environments
- Weekend wear with a sports jacket or blazer
- Business casual attire
The variation in brown tones allows for greater personal expression than could ever be achieved in black. Tan shoes create striking contrast with navy trousers, for example, while darker brown pairs work in harmony with grey suits. That’s why it’s a good idea to have a few brown pairs – but we would say that, wouldn’t we?
The rules of colour coordination
Understanding the way your shoes and the rest of your ensemble interact is the key to a balanced, stylish look. The traditional rule is that shoes should be darker than your trousers, ensuring the eye flows naturally downwards. This explains why black shoes work with most suit colours, while brown requires more thoughtful pairing. However, lighter browns like tan will work with a suit that’s on the lighter side, even if it’s a bit darker than the shoes.
Here’s your coordination guide for a given suit:
- Black suit: Black shoes exclusively
- Charcoal suit: Black shoes primarily, but dark brown can work
- Navy suit: Black or brown work excellently
- Light grey suit: Dark brown or black
- Beige or tan suit: Brown shoes, but dark or light will usually work
Don’t forget to match your belt with your shoes for a cohesive look, and if you’re a details guy, your watch strap should follow the rule, too.
Context matters
While tradition is valuable for guidance, contemporary style does allow for a little interpretation when it comes to shoes. If you work in a creative industry, for instance, brown shoes with dark suits can look cool and relaxed, whereas in a legal firm, the same look might raise eyebrows.
Time of day also influences your choice. Daytime events generally allow brown shoes more easily than evening functions, where black remains the predominant look. Also, seasonal considerations can come into play – lighter browns feel natural in summer, while darker tones suit autumn and winter wardrobes.
If you have these four styles in your shoe rack, you should be able to match any suit or semi-formal outfit you’re wearing:
- Black Oxfords – the basics of formal footwear
- Dark brown or oxblood brogues for versatile business wear
- Tan Derby shoes for smart-casual events
- Black or dark brown loafers for weekend style with a formal edge
Remember, your shoes are the anchor that holds your entire appearance in place. Those in the know appreciate the attention to detail and respect for occasion that the right shoes can demonstrate. Armed with these fundamentals of black versus brown shoes, you’ll never slip up.