To the uninitiated, single- and double-breasted suits are just different flavours of the same thing. And while that’s partly true, the two designs have unique histories that have diverged, coming back together relatively recently. That story has created subtle subtle differences in how and when they are worn among those in the know.
In this article, we’ll go into the stories, the designs and the etiquette of these different types of suits. You’ll emerge better informed if you’re faced with the decision at the suit store or in your wardrobe.
A Brief History of Suits
The single-breasted suit, a staple of men’s wardrobes worldwide, traces its roots to the early 19th century. Originally, it was an adaptation from the “frock coat”, a smart outer layer that was a practical and versatile option for daily wear. The single-breasted design became especially popular during the 20th century, thanks to its simplicity and ease of wear. It would go on to become a mainstay for both business attire and less formal events.
The double-breasted suit began its journey in the late 1800s, again as a practical piece of everyday wear for the gentleman. With more than a nod to military uniforms, it became associated with authority and elegance, making it a favourite among the social elites during the 1930s and 1940s. It gained widespread appeal in the early 20th century, however.
It’s fair to say that the double breasted suit almost disappeared in the latter half of the 20th century, being replaced wholesale by the single-breasted version. It was simply seen as stuffy and old-fashioned, rather than vintage chic. Fortunately, the double-breasted suit has seen a resurgence in recent years, as tastes, attitudes, designs and fabrics have created fertile ground for this statement piece.
Double-breasted suits remain the minority option today, accounting for about a tenth of the sales of single-breasted ones. That’s great info for any gent who wants to stand out a little, but also reassuring for men who need to fit in.
The Design
Physically, the single-breasted suit is recognised by its single row of buttons and a narrow overlap of fabric. Typically featuring one to three buttons, it offers a clean, vertical line that is flattering on almost any body shape.
Its versatility makes it a natural choice for a range of events, from business meetings to cocktail parties. Single-breasted suits lend themselves to being worn with a waistcoat, in the form of a three-piece suit, but it’s not necessary – the jacket works well over just a shirt and tie, a plain T-shirt or perhaps a roll-neck sweater.
The double-breasted suit, on the other hand, is characterised by its two parallel columns of buttons, which requires a broader overlap of fabric. Traditionally, they feature six buttons, only two of which are functional. This design creates a more structured and formal look. The wide lapels and enhanced shoulder area lend a strong, confident air to the outfit.
Double-breasted suits tend not to be worn with a waistcoat, as they offer enough structure and coverage on their own. However, some tailors do make three-piece double-breasted suits.
When and How to Wear Them
The single-breasted suit is the jack-of-all-trades in the sartorial world. Its understated elegance suits it well for semi-formal and business settings. Pair it with a dress shirt and a fashionable tie for the office – you can add a dash of personality with a pocket square and other accessories.
When it comes to buttoning a single-breasted suit, remember the cardinal rule: “sometimes, always, never” for three-button jackets, and “always, never” for two-button jackets. The code works from the top, and its basic conclusion is that you should never fasten the bottom button, although there’s a bit more wiggle room with the others.
The double-breasted suit demands a little more respect for the rules. It is typically worn for high-end events such as weddings, formal dinners and so on – anywhere that commands a touch of charm. Your white or lightly patterned shirt, coupled with a silk tie, will peek through the gap at the top, so should be immaculate. A well-folded pocket square might not quite be essential, but you might feel a little underdressed without them in some settings.
Typically, the inside button – known as the anchor – should always be fastened to maintain the jacket’s tailored shape. The outer button should also be done up, unless sitting. Tradition dictates that double-breasted suits are not to be worn unbuttoned, but modern attitudes do allow some flexibility.
Accessorising Your Suit
With both styles, attention to detail can transform an outfit. For the single-breasted suit, classic leather lace-up shoes are a must, matching your belt for a unified look. A good quality watch with a minimalist face can add a touch of sophistication without overpowering the ensemble.
For double-breasted suits, monk straps or Oxford shoes complement the formal nature beautifully. Given the boldness of the jacket, go for subtle cufflinks and a muted lapel pin that enhance rather than distract.
Single- and Double-Breasted Suits: How to Choose
There’s no right or wrong when choosing between a single-breasted and a double-breasted suit. There are only guidelines – which are made to be broken. While the single-breasted suit offers everyday versatility and understated charm, the double-breasted will always bring a bit more sophistication and timeless elegance to proceedings.
