If you think the British weather is unpredictable, wait till you see the rogue’s gallery of coats that men choose to wear over their suits. A trip into any city centre in the winter months will reveal the complete range, from those whose coats carry the gravitas and masculinity of the suit, to those that look like they occupy a different stylistic universe.
If you’re worried about making sure your coat works well with your suit, here is your go-to guide for getting the look. Just follow a few basic rules and avoid certain styles of coat, and it’s more than likely that you’ll always look fine when you’re adding an outer layer to your suit.
Coats Designed for Suits
Firstly, we’ll discuss the coats that work perfectly with suits, which is often because they were designed that way.
The overcoat is a timeless staple, offering both versatility and warmth without adding unnecessary bulk. They’re typically made from wool or wool blend, and have a streamlined design that makes sure your suit’s sleek silhouette remains intact. Choose a fit that harmonises with the suit’s natural lines, and select colours that match (or subtly contrast) your attire.
The trench coat is another excellent option, and might be a slightly better option when the weather’s really dirty. Its military origins mean that this coat often comes in neutral shades like navy or beige, which naturally complement most suits.
Another favourite is the Chesterfield coat. Traditionally, it has always had a distinctive velvet collar, but that’s not necessarily the case these days. This coat embodies elegance and turns up the formality a notch or two. Choosing darker hues preserves this sophisticated vibe, making it the perfect pairing for more refined suits.
The topcoat is a lighter alternative to the overcoat, and offers a luxurious touch when crafted from materials like cashmere. It’s just perfect for the transitional seasons, where you need warmth but don’t need to be bundled up too much.
Finally, let’s not overlook the Mac, a minimalist masterpiece that’s ideal for commuters or those whose work takes them outdoors. Its clean lines and simple structure enhance any suit without overpowering it, and it’s perfectly practical for drizzly days.
Coats and Jackets to Avoid with a Suit
While some coats go over suits beautifully, others should be avoided if you want to keep your businesslike silhouette.
The parka, with its bulky and casual demeanour, disrupts the elegance of a suit. This one is definitely for more casual occasions, so only slip it on over a T-shirt or jumper for a practical coat with an element of street cool.
Technical outerwear such as anoraks and cagoules are built for function over form, working better with outdoor activities than business settings. They often come in quite gaudy colours, or with flashes of fluorescent detailing, too. That’s fine for hiking in the mountains, but just looks out of place in the professional world. Similarly, the fleece jacket, another staple for outdoor pursuits, is ill-suited for formal environments. It simply lacks the structure to complement professional attire, and most of the time they are shorter than the jacket, which is always a no-no.
Bomber jackets and Harringtons might bring a spot of urban flair, but their cropped design and casual lines starkly contrast the refined lines of a suit. Quilted jackets are loved by the upper crust and the countryside set, but add bulk, ruining the suit’s streamlined appearance.
An Eye on The Weather
When selecting the ideal coat for your suit, don’t forget to assess the weather conditions. Is insulation, wind-cheating or water resistance your primary need today, or can you even go without? It’s always handy to have a small selection of coats – at minimum a Mac and an overcoat – so you can decide what to wear on a given day.
Fit is King
Of all the qualities of your new coat, the fit is the most critical. Even suboptimal colour choices can be salvaged by having a sleek silhouette with no bunching. Ensure the coat accommodates your bulkiest suit jacket without constriction, but still look for the slimmest fit you can get away with.
Ultimately, the right coat is more than just outerwear – it’s part of your suit, offering utility and maintaining the style you’ve worked so hard to achieve. By following these simple guidelines, you should at worst avoid a fashion faux pas, but at best you’ll give yourself a professional look that will bring you confidence and respect in business or formal circles.