Shoes can be made bespoke just like a suit, but it comes at a cost. When you buy shoes out of the box (as 99% of us do), they will naturally be designed to fit the average foot. There might be wide, narrow, long or short versions, but ultimately they’re designed on a template. Unfortunately, your feet aren’t. You might be wider at the toes but slender elsewhere, or have a pronounced Achilles’ tendon. If you find your shoes pinch at one point, you can usually stretch it to fit. If it’s tight all round, you’ve probably just bought the wrong size.
But breaking in new leather shoes needn’t be an ordeal; with a few clever tricks, you can soften and stretch them until they fit your feet like a dream. Here’s how to glide through the process, protecting both your feet and your new shoes.
Why leather stretches
It might help to know why leather can stretch. As a natural material derived from animal hide, leather is not only strong, but delightfully flexible too. It can expand and mold to the shape of your foot, offering a tailored fit over time. Its breathability adds an extra layer of comfort, preventing feet from becoming hot and sweaty while aiding the stretching process.
With its tightly interwoven fibres, leather expands when subjected to tension, and retains this new form, especially when softened with heat or moisture. This adaptability is what makes leather perfect for stretching to achieve a snug fit.
Wear your way to comfortable shoes
So, how do you make them wider where you need to? The easiest way is to wear your shoes indoors for short bursts. A week of shuffling around the house, or even just sitting watching TV, will begin to shape the leather to your foot’s contours without the damage that comes from walking on outdoor surfaces. You’ll be using your natural heat and form to make the leather supple. Since you’re not walking far, you won’t get blisters, which you’d probably get if you just started to wear them out and about.
Next comes the magic of leather conditioner. This keeps it supple and as an added bonus, prevents squeaking. A monthly conditioning ritual, applying a cream or spray, helps the leather to remain as pliable as it can be. Massaging the area by hand also quickens this softening, imitating the natural movement exerted by your feet.
Proactive techniques
Breaking in your shoes by wearing them will work most of the time, but there are some slightly less passive ways of softening and stretching them. A traditional approach is to stuff your shoes with newspaper. Fill the shoes as snugly as possible with the paper, leave overnight and repeat as necessary. Each time you do it, start with new paper or loosen the paper you’ve pulled out – it keeps the pressure up in the right places.
Another way is to introduce gentle heat from a hairdryer set to low. Put on some thick socks and blast the tight areas from a distance of about 30 cm. Then, walk around as the leather warms and pliably stretches. While slightly unconventional, holding your shoes over the steam from a boiling kettle softens the leather considerably, making it far more malleable. With both of these techniques, patience is key. If you hold the shoes too close to the heat source you can damage them, so use moderate heat several times.
If all else fails, simply wearing thick socks acts as a natural expander of tight shoes. Layer with thin socks if bulk is needed and wear the shoes for short periods. They should start to ease with each wear.
An offbeat yet effective method involves the freezing technique: placing a water-filled, sealable bag inside the shoe and then freezing it. As any plumber knows, freezing water expands, so it should gently stretch the leather. It’s an unorthodox technique that some people swear by, although the low temperatures could also freeze the natural moisture in the leather and cause damage. We’d file this technique under “last resorts”.
Employing custom-made tools
For those who prefer a more professional approach, you have several pro tools that can help in your quest for comfort. Shoe stretch spray, for instance, is your friend here. A liberal application on the inside followed by a few hours of wear can magic away tightness.
A shoe stretcher (or shoe tree) is a mechanical device that applies balanced pressure from within the shoe. It can work wonders, especially for stubborn pairs or specific problem areas. Leave the stretcher in for a day or two to achieve a comfortable adjustment. The tree is also used to keep shoes in shape when not in use for a while – proper wooden ones also absorb excess moisture.
Tips to keep in mind
Do take your time with the stretching process; patience is a virtue here. Follow instructions for any product or tool. If spraying, we’d always do a small patch test on a hard-to-see part (e.g. the edge of a tongue of lace-up shoes, or any internal leather) before applying. Some brands can cause discolouration.
Avoid overstretching or forcing methods – gentleness is key. If discomfort persists during the stretching process, it might be best to stuff them with paper or use a shoe tree for a longer period – a week or more.
Most of the time, off-the-shelf shoes will fit perfectly, but there will often be little niggles if you have slightly unusual feet. Using these techniques should hopefully give your shoes that little bit of softening and stretching in the places you need it most. Then you’re ready to show off your beautiful loafers, monks, lace-ups or boots with comfort and confidence.