Good footwear is both a testament to style and a signature of personal identity. It’s fascinating to note that the basic styles of dress shoes and boots haven’t really been added to in decades. Fashion seems to have settled on a collection that meets the whole range of social, business and formal occasions. Sure, there have been subtle style changes of the years, but the essential categories and sub-categories have remained firmly in place. Let’s go through them to examine their unique features.
Loafers
Loafers are versatility and casual elegance exemplified. Originating from a desire for comfort combined with a smart appearance, loafers are slip-on laceless shoes that cover the whole spectrum from formal to casual. Every man’s shoe rack should have at least one pair, but the range of styles probably necessitates more.
Slip-on loafers
All loafers are slip-on, but when specified like this, it normally refers to a minimalist design. Without embellishments or fastenings, they whisper simplicity and ease of wear. This style can be paired seamlessly with chinos, denim or even tailored suits, presenting an image of relaxed sophistication.
Tassel loafers
Tassel loafers add a touch of decorative flair to the standard design. Characterised by the addition of tassels on the vamp, they exude a slight sense of joie de vivre while maintaining their refined air. They work excellently with semi-formal and smart casual attire.
Snaffle bit loafers
With their iconic equestrian-inspired metal detailing, snaffle bit loafers – often referred to as horsebit loafers – bring a touch of jazz and extravagance to proceedings. This design blends comfort with high fashion, suitable for dressy occasions and lending a touch of theatre to any look.
Penny loafers
Penny loafers, recognisable by the leather strap across the instep with a small diamond-shaped or oval cut-out, come with impeccable heritage. Traditionally, gentlemen would place a penny in the slit, hence the name. Apart from that detail, there are no limits – they can be minimalistic or glittering, depending on taste and occasion.
Monks
The monk strap shoe is characterised by its distinct buckle closure instead of conventional lacing. The name dates back centuries, to when they were worn by actual monks who were engaged in relatively hard labour and needed something sturdy on their feet. The modern, polished, monk shoe stands out for its blend of formal and edgy aesthetics.
Double buckle monks
The double buckle monk shoe is a bold creation, featuring two straps with buckles, which are more aesthetic than functional. These shoes are typically reserved for formal attire, but can make a statement in the business world – they’ll certainly be noticed by anyone paying attention to detail.
Single buckle monks
Simpler yet equally striking, the single buckle monk shoe unsurprisingly has just a single strap, and is the standard type of monk. The style is versatile enough to be paired with both formal suits and smart casual wear. Their simple appearance makes them an ideal choice for those who appreciate subtle elegance. In some designs, the buckle will be completely hidden by the trousers, leaving an unadulterated upper to appreciate.
Lace-ups
Lace-up dress shoes are the basics of men’s formal footwear. Think elegant profiles and structured designs. Each type of lace-up shoe has its own characteristics, so choose your pairs based on the specific looks you’re going for.
Oxfords
Oxfords are probably what springs to mind when you think of lace-up dress shoes. Defined by their closed lacing system, where the eyelets are stitched underneath the vamp, they offer a sleek appearance. Polished black Oxfords are perfect for black-tie events, while brown ones work beautifully with business and smart casual ensembles. The look doesn’t have to be plain, however – any style and texture can be projected onto the blank canvas here.
Brogues
With their decorative perforations, brogues bring a sense of tradition and heritage. These shoes typically feature wingtip designs and can be found in various levels of broguing (quarter, semi or full). They’re versatile enough to accompany both business and casual attire, and work beautifully with tweed suits.
Derbies
Derby shoes, characterised by their open lacing system, bring a more relaxed feel than Oxfords. This makes Derbies a great choice for everyday formal wear and smart casual outfits alike. They offer a balance of comfort and style, earning themselves a place in every wardrobe.
Boots
Depending on the type, men’s boots can be symbols of rugged elegance or sophisticated style. Whether you’re wearing them in the urban or the rural environment, there’s a style that will fot the occasion perfectly.
Chelsea boots
Chelsea boots come with a timeless design and are loved for their ease of wear. That elastic side panel and pull-tab at the back makes them easy-on, easy-off options for the whole range of looks. Pair a smart pair with a tailored suit or more rugged ones with jeans – you’re guaranteed to look fine.
Monk boots
Just like monk shoes, monk boots incorporate a buckle, providing a stylish alternative to more conventional boots. Usually ankle-high, these boots offer a blend of formality and go-getter appeal, and you'll find them as comfy as they are easy on the eye.
Brogue boots
Brogue boots have the classic brogue perforations and wingtip design, but in boot form. They’re perfect for adding a touch of flair to cold-weather attire. Like the shoes, they work particularly well with tweed trousers, but denim can also accompany them on the city pavement.
Chukka boots
Chukka boots have an ankle-high profile and two or three lace eyelets. Often made from suede or soft leather, they bring a relaxed yet refined look to your feet. Chukkas are versatile, working with smart casual outfits but being perfect wearable for a night on the town.
That’s the main families of men’s formal shoes covered. It’s impossible to imagine a formal or semi-formal occasion where at least one of these would be inappropriate. Just make sure you focus on the fabric and the finish when you’re deciding on a pair for a given event. Look after yours, and there’s no reason you won’t get years of use out of them – they almost certainly won’t go out of fashion.